 |
 |
 |
Thursday, October 14, 2004
kashgar
Like an alien in this town, the wide dusty desert streets, step into a back street and suddenly it's a different world, narrow winding mudbrick mazes, watch your step or you're down in the hole.
Muslim brown-skinned faces, all-seeing all-knowing eyes. People so beautiful you want to paint their portraits, the niggling frustration of unartistic hands. Weathered men onweathered motorbikes, creased faces, smiling eyes, women in headscarves rolling by on donkey carts. I'm in love with the picture. The thing about beauty is younever find it where you expect to find it - only in rare moments, satori-like flashes does it take you aback...
(Interlude: donkey hee-haws, motorcycle whizzes by, the clip clop of ladies heels, the clip clop of horses hooves, the rollercoaster voices of Uighur men, the delighted squeals of children)
...The alien has arrived in attire I once saw everywhere, now I'm not hip but just plain weird. And then back onto the main street, an occasional familiar Chinese face in the crowds like an old friend, any port in a storm, no longer foreign but family.
Uighur with its bob-bob-bobs, an intoxicating creaky old rollercoaster of sound, pleasing to the ear when coming from a broad smiling mouth, the old eyes of an ancient culture, the people who belong here. The Chinese as bumbling naive impostors posted out to jobs in this dusty exotic backwater. And they fought and they fought for this land, this scorching wasteland full of soul they didn't understand. The Chinese as my fellow aliens, wandering aimless through foreign streets, feigning ownership, knowing nothing. How am I any different, posted out here through my own device, ignoramus, novice, child.
Eighth Century mummified dumplings in the Kashgar Silk Road Museum.
Xiang Fei (Ik Parhar) led the Uighur Revolution against the invading Chinese, kidnapped by the emperor and made to be his concubine (or Fragrant Concubine, as he liked to call her). Raped by the object of revolt for the rest of her short life, and forced to commit suicide by a jealous empress (for her beauty was second to none, a mind-blowing exotic gorgeousness that caused donkey-cart accidents) and finally, her body carried all the way home to Kashgar, a 3 year journey, to be buried in her family tomb, a martyr to the cause.
Sunday market, sheep, donkeys, horses, cows, yaks, disappointingly no camels. Lamb roasting on skewers only metres from rows of live sheep, whose eyes are downcast, silent, resigned to their fate. Horses being taken for bareback test-drives, a real life western rodeo show. donkeys being shod, young boys taunting tethered bulls with whips, stones thrown at protesting donkeys a stone's throw from the click of tourist cameras.
And now I have to go before my hour on this computer is up and the computer switches off and all this is lost. Bye........................................................................................................................
Posted at 02:46 pm by dors50
Wednesday, September 29, 2004
stories
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
If I Had Been Born a Tree
Why I want to be a tree? You may think, Ah! Because China needs trees. You know every year there are many trees have cutten down by humans. Then they cause many floods and droughts. So many people no home to return to. Even they lost their lives.
I don't like to see that again, so I want to be a tree. If I can, I want to be many trees and grasses.
I can stop water from flowing, stop the strong wind from blowing. If that not happened, the environment of China would be much more beautiful. Many humans like me, because many things can be made of tree. The humans want to cut me and sell me to get rich. But I think it's not very moral. They think that money is more important than their lives. I want to change their mind, if I can.
I hope the beautiful environment China will get.
Let's make a contribution to our country!
-May, level 8
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
If I Had Been Born a Chair
Hey! Be careful! I'm really happy to tell you that I'll be born! Congratulations! First, we should have a ritual to welcome me - there'll be an intelligent chair in the world. And then, please put your hands together and make them beat each other. And then repeat this action for three or more times - now you should know what I want - just congratulate me! And then you should... Oh! It's time to come to the world. Let's count together - three, two, one, zero!
Hello ladies and gentlemen. I'm the cleverest chair of this century. Don't think that I'm so general: I'm not the same as you think. Inderstand? I can think! And now my life is beginning. I'm should I'll have an exciting life...
...Yuck! Where is it? It's so dark and moved. I can't believe it I'm in a truck? ! The driver should know that I'm not mild, not foolish, not important, not... i'm AGGRESSIVE! Remember! I'll kill you if you treat me toughly! I'll make you... OUCH! Is it stopped? Oh! Don't touch me! I'm so angry! Oh, I'm painful! You beated me! Oh no...
DRIVER: Good evening sir. This is the newest chair in the factory. I think you'll like it.
MAN: Oh how beautiful is it! I like it very much. Thank you Peter.
DRIVER: Oh it's good. I'm very happy you like it. Goodnight sir.
Oh no! Why I'll be sat on by people? Oh no no no! Please don't sit on me! Oh, be careful of your hip! Don't sit on me! I'm very sorry to be a chair like now. Oh my life! (crying)
WOMAN: This chair is very comfortable, dear.
MAN: Yes, it's for you, Tina.
WOMAN: Thank you very much.
Oh, I'm so painful! can't stand this! I'm not the same as other chairs!
BOY: Can I have a try, mum?
WOMAN: Of course, my darling.
Oh, good. I'm very happy now you are not on me madam. I told you I'm great. Haha. Oh, NO---- Go away! I'm angry! I shouldn't be the service for you!
BOY: It's great mum!
MAN: Really? I want to have a try!
BOY: But dad, you're 80kg!
MAN: It doesn't matter! I'm coming!
Oh, what did he say? He is...? He is 80kg? Oh... goodbye everyone...
BOY: Oh no dad, it's broken.
MAN: But I haven't sat on it!
BOY: It's quite strange...
-Emma, level 8
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
WHEN I RETIRE
When I retire, I will go to Iceland with my family and my pets. I will build a big houewith a glass roof. I will lie on the floor and see the shining staff through the glass roof at night. When it rains I will also stay at home and have a cup of hot coffee. I'll lie on the floor quietly and listen to a piece of light music. When the rain drops on the roof I will see and feel the rain. I'll go to the hot springs every day. I'll play games with the little children. Maybe I will keep a cafe. Then I will make it the most comfortable cafe in the world. I will ask some people to play some soft music all the day and let the room be warm and full of the smell of coffee. My life will be different and I will have the most beautiful memories there.
-Teresa, level 7
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
WHEN I'M 64
In 2068, I'll become a very old woman. But I'm happy becuase I have a lot of friends and children. The earth also becomes more and more beautiful and is full of water except some islands.
I like the world. There is no continents again. We build our houses on the sea. We can also live in the boats or the ships like Titanic. I float on the sea all day.
The islands can offer us rice, vegetables, other things people like. I think people in the world will eat the same things. Of course they are all kinds of delicious food in every country. We can float everywhere and make friends with every country.
If so, we'll save a lot of money. There is no necessity to buy tickets or passports because there is no demarcation lines on the sea. So we become a big family. We all friendly and there is not wars anymore.
If we don't want to stay on the islands and ships, we can swim. It's convenient for us to do this. If you swim well, we can go to the bottom of the sea. It's another beautiful world. We can see all kinds of fish, kelp, jellyfish, lobsters, squids, walruses, lovely turtles and so on.
I like the world when I'm 64. I feel very happy the moment I see the water. So I'll be happy all my life.
-Leo, level 6
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
MY BAD HABITS
Do I have any bad habits? Oh yes, everyone has bad habits. Though I don't want to, I always pick my nose.
I know it's not a good habit but I can't control my fingers sometimes. When I forget to control myself, the finger is always in my nose.
I am very sad about this. How should I do? I don't know.
One day, I had a good idea. If I made my finger get fat, it couldn't come to my nose. I could break my bad habit.
I made some cloth on my finger. It looked very fat and it couldn't come to my nose. I needn't control my mind. Many day past. I never pick my nose.
-Helen, level 4
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Posted at 06:35 pm by dors50
public security announcement
A briefing we received this morning at our staff meeting:
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Foreign teachers who have any one of the following behaviours would be sent to public securities and some other concerning departments according to the serious of the case:
1. Have reactionary speech and actions which disrupt unity between different ethnic groups; organise or stir up trouble and participate in illegal religious activities that disturb public order, insult and slander others and do not repeat for such behaviours.
2. Violate the criminal law and to be considered as criminal offence.
3. Damage public property (including facilities in apartment house), steal money from the country, groups and individuals.
4. Fight, gamble, steal things frequently, take addictive drugs, and indulge in excessive drinking in serious case; have bad conduct or ill behaviours.
5. Spread or disseminate religious ideas at school.
6. Lure and force others to be religious or participate religious activities.
7. Listen and record reactionary religious materials, spread and keep and such things and other propaganda materials.
8. Make use of superstitious activities to disturb normal order of the school.
9. Adapt various ways to dispel or isolate non-religious people.
10. Have religious behaviours like praying and fasting (during Ramadan).
11. Wear religious clothes at school.
12. Do some other superstitious things at school.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Posted at 04:14 pm by dors50
Tuesday, September 28, 2004
xinjiang
urumqi. first snow september 28th. we're in for a long hard winter.
loneliness in the desert? a sense of isolation? no. far less so than jinzhou. but somehow, in this semi-metropolis, this sea of han and uighur faces, that old anonymity is present, no longer people shouting 'hello', no longer the stares that used to follow me everywhere I went. Do I miss the attention? Is that what it is? Or are the soulful drums of Xinjiang echoing through me?
Posted at 08:11 pm by dors50
Wednesday, July 28, 2004
morning glory
Wednesday 7:15am. Foggy and humid, those massive flies rubbing their wings, making cicadas sound like lullabys. Another night spent sleeping under a soaking bath towel. July cruising into port. The odds-and-sods man cruising by on his loud-speaker bicycle. A solitary woman tai chi fan dancing outside the kindergarten. A car horn in the distance. Five purple morning glories getting a raw deal on this ethereal grey day.
Another day of work ahead, but this one not too bad with only my EF4 (adult class) to entertain. This time round their names are better than fiction; could anyone come up with anything more pleasing to the ear than Pinky, Livra, Wilson, Fish, God, Moon and Leo (a girl)? Slagging matches in class yesterday between Pinky and Fish, who have taken to calling each other Piggy and Dog. Sometimes its wisest to simply sit back and enjoy the funfair.
Listening to West African music (Toumani Diabate with his akora, soulful song and chorus of girls) in a city that seems to be at the other end of the earth, where 95% of my students will never have heard of Mali (would that figure, I wonder, be any different in England?).
Beautiful music for soulless city, where art, religion and scholarship were stamped out so thoroughly in the Cultural Revolution. They certainly did a good job obliterating anything the Japanese missed in WWII.
After 30 years, creativity and imagination are only just beginning to sprout back through the cracks in the concreted earth. This land of chanting and marching does its best to stifle any right-brain activity, but human nature is just too strong to be stifled forever.
Ha! Take that Chairman Mao!
********************************************************************************
The Party have recently made a constitutional amendment recognising protection of private property, which runs contrary to communist principles. This unconstitutional move is perhaps a reflection of changing attitudes and values towards property, the environment and hygiene. Perhaps the old attitude of 'It's not mine, so why should I care?' is finally becoming old hat?
One looks at the grimy buildings, the forlorn broken windows, old plastic bags clinging to bars on windows, dirty streets. If this were England, there would be men and women on ladders scrubbing their patch, making their walls and windows glisten and gleam, and not touching a brick beyond their own. A metaphor for 'keeping up with the Joneses' style capitalism: we can only evaluate our own worth by comapring it (favourably) to others'.
Here, even if the apartments do belong to individual property owners, so many years of living with the knowledge that your home could be confiscated at any moment has induced a lack of regard for aethetics. What's the point in allowing yourself to be proud of your possessions when tomorrow they may be snatched from your hands? Communism explains more than just a lack of individual pride in ownership; it extends to a lack of respect for the environment, which belongs to 'the people', aka the goverment, aka no-one, and no-one cares for it, so 'why should I?'.
'Right now, political instability and crime occurs because too many people in China have nothing to lose. In a way, the party's agenda has come full circle. Remember, it was Mao Zedong himself who once said, 'The land should be given to those who work on it.' Finally, that is about to happen.' - Lawrence Brahm, Sth China Post, 08.03.04
But how do you reverse a social trend that has become so ingrined that it is now part of the national mentality ('It is in my nature to destroy nature')? It's not that I personally would get a kick out of seeing the locals out on ladders scrubbing the front of their buildings (although that would indeed be a bizarre sight to see). But how does one instill environmental pride in people who see environmental pride as pointless?
After climbing The Mountain That Flew Here in Hangzhou, and exploring a few different areas of China, it has become evident to me that there is some sort of 'Keep China Beautiful' campaign that is getting through. One has to presume that there is a fairly heavy north-south divide scorched across the land (and, dare I say it, that north-south divide can only be the Great Wall, built to defend the 'civilised' south from marauding northern barbarians). If you picture the area north-east of Beijing as one big polluted smoggy industrial cess-pit, you are on the way to understanding why people up here don't seem to give a damn about their physical environment. What's the point, when the Big Men are already doing their best to kill the place, a slow death for every northern citizen via heavy, cancer-inducing air.
Looking out of my window though now, I see that it's beginning to clear up. It's already difficult to remember the disgustingness, the air thick with gluggy coal smoke, that was winter. Blue skies, green trees, grass and flowers, a glimpse of pretty green hillsides between the glistening pink buildings of Shi Ji Hua Yuan. It's truly a glorious day.
Have I just contradicted everything I've just said?
Posted at 10:45 am by dors50
Sunday, June 13, 2004
Three letters to my mother by TB minors
Dear Dora's mum,
My name is David. I'm a student of Dora. I write to the letter to ask you to go to Beijing in China. I think that it's a beautiful and big city. You can visit a lot of places in Beijing. For example, the great wall. the summer palace, the palace museum and so on. You should take some summer coats. Because the summer in Beijing is very hot. You needn't to bring lots of money. You will find that Chinese people are very friendly and cute. I hope that you can have a good trip.
Yours,
David.
Dear Dora's mum,
My name is Ben, I am Dora's student. When you come to China, you should go to Jiu Zhai Gou. There has a lot of primeval forests. In there, you could see many beautiful view. There has a lot of animal, for example, elephant, tiger, ape-man are surprise for you. After, you could go Shanghai, there has so many English men, or other country. You will feel very happy. Maybe you can come to Tian mountain. very beautiful.
Have fun playing,
Ben
Dear Dora's mum,
My name is Hao Tian. I am Dora's worst student. When you go to China, You'd better go to Mao mountain. Because it is your future home. Mao mountain is Dora's future too. Dora drink coca cola every day. He will die because he drink too many coca cola. And you will die because your drink so many 7-Up. Forever goodbye
Your's.
Hao Tian
Posted at 04:59 pm by dors50
a little gem from class TB2C
A SNAKE KEEPERS JOB
She has to feed the snakes
She has to get on well with the snakes
She has to talk to the snakes
She has to be friendly to the snakes
She has to give the snakes some medicine when the snakes are ill
She mustn't too near the snakes
She mustn't play with the snakes
She mustn't kill the snakes
She mustn't fight the snakes
She mustn't sleep with the snakes
She mustn't drink with the snakes.
Posted at 04:43 pm by dors50
I'm meeeeltiiing!!!
sorry, long time no write... sweltering here in Downtown Browntown in 36 degree heat...
at least we have air con at our school, imagine how the poor kids feel at their schools... in fact no need for me to imagine, as I have to teach at state schools every Monday and Tuesday, which has become almost unbearable over the last couple of weeks, especially with window opening a crime punishable by death. (hmm, maybe not literally.)
More culinary delights to add to my tastebuds' resume; last night we ate silkworms (or BBQ cocooned pupee, as I prefer to call them), lambs feet, pigs trotters and sheeps eyes. Mmm. I wasn't quite sure if my hosts were having a laugh as the more bizarre foods seemed to stay firmly down my end of the table... good nonetheless. The night market started up a couple of weeks ago, bustling street stalls full of clothes and snacks and cold beer on tap at 1 yuan (7p) a pop - ah, this really is my idea of heaven! Spotted some fried crickets there the other day but not quite brave enough to try them yet.
Young Mary Dove arrives in 2 weeks and we're off on a short holiday to the mountains etc. She being the camel she is will surely be able to bear this weather far better than I.
Aah, well, I'm off to enjoy my afternoon, sitting on the balcony, having a nice coldie - I'll have one for you...
Posted at 04:33 pm by dors50
Friday, May 21, 2004
a dog's dinner
went out for dinner last night with some mates to a BBQ joint. A plate of dog (very sinewy, disappointing, really) followed by barbecued rabbits heads (we had meant to order potatoes but something went wrong in the translation- not such an unusual occurance in the end). While I stuck to eating the rabbits cheeks, Daniel was a little braver and consumed the tongue (not without first sticking it between his lips and murmuring 'Give us a kiss darlin'') and the brains. I can't help feeling that food like this is far more suitable for playing with than eating. Tonight I think I'll stick to something a little more conservative.
Posted at 03:57 pm by dors50
desert
I was teaching today when I looked out the window to find the world had turned yellow. The air was thick with swirling dust, motorbikes were being toppled by the wind, some people were walking backwards against the storm, others were diving into shops for cover. It was the worst sandstorm since I've been here.
Posted at 03:47 pm by dors50
|
|
 |
|
 |
 |
 |
for photos, go to:
http://community.webshots.com/user/dors50
for alternative blog (Ethiopia 2005) go to: http://dorsinafrica.blogdrive.com
you can check out my photos on http://community.webshots.com/user/dors50
Contact Me
|
 |
|